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What Kind of Buyer Am I?

If you want to save money while you are negotiating you should negotiate from the dealer cost up and not from the MSRP down.

You just need to remember that dealer cost is not the same as the factory invoice.

Some dealerships refuse to haggle over the cost of a car. Once you make your opening offer you should never accept anything higher than that, as far as costs go.

If the dealership that you go to doesn’t haggle, don’t sweat it, some other dealership will.

The reason some dealerships refuse to haggle is because they want to add extra fees to the MSRP. You will need to decide what kind of buyer you are in order to get a negotiating stance.

You do not want to set yourself up as a monthly payment buyer either because that is a guaranteed way for you to get a higher payment fee.

They will offer to take a little bit off of the MSRP. They will then ask you what you are looking to pay each month; this is where the extra money comes in.

Cash buyers are generally asked, “Are willing to pay each month?” Tell them it doesn’t matter because you are looking for an even division on the cost of the car, not to haggle over the monthly cost.

Tell them that you are looking to haggle over the cost of the car, not the monthly payments. This is often used for cash buyers.

If a finance manager tries to get you to report your payment method before you have decided upon purchasing the car, don’t get sucked into it.

The method of payment doesn’t matter unless you are deciding upon purchasing the car. Finance managers ask so that that they can best decide how to screw you over.

Some dealers will offer you to give you a better deal if you finance your car through them. I can guarantee that this will not be the case.

Of course the worst thing that you could be an impulse buyer.

An impulse buyer is just another word for “victim.” Impulse buyers can often get sucked into the “hot” car of the moment and usually get taken for as much as $10,000. A dealer can see this buyer coming from a mile away.

If a dealer approaches you about the “hot” car tell him that you are not interested because it will not be worth the money next year as the new “hot” car will be out by then.

You don’t want to buy a car that is in demand because it is the easiest way for a dealership to mark up the prices. The MSRP always looks low, but it is the extras and monthly payments that will lose you money.

Remember the resale value of the car doesn’t change no matter how much money you bobought the car for. It still depreciates in value from the factory invoice.

Some Sales Scams

As I’ve said before, there are many ongoing scams that dealerships will throw at you in order to bank some extra money from you. I’ve shown you the most popular, but let’s look at some more.

Written contract scam: This is basically when the finance manager sits you down and begins to write himself into frenzy, while quickly throwing numbers at you until you are so confused, you end up paying more than you agreed upon.

This may seem impossible for a person to get away with but believe me; it happens all of the time.

The finance manager is counting on you being confused and desperate to get out of there, so assumes you will simply go along with whatever he says. Most of the time, it works.

Avoid it by forcing the guy to slow down, and calculate right along with him to make sure that you are getting a fair deal and that you both come up with the same numbers.

Price beating scam: This is when the dealer tells you that they will beat anyone else’s prices or give you $500.

They simply ask you to get the price from another dealer and they’ll beat it. The hard part is that other dealers will not just hand over their information for you to take to someone else.

This deal is almost impossible to get because most dealers sell different makes and models anyway. Avoid it by not buying into it in the first place.

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